
Chez François presents Château Mouton-Rothschild & The Rothschild Family Estates
A Holiday Wine Dinner with Daniel Greathouse
Sunday, December 5, 2021 • 5:00pm
We were offered a rare opportunity to host a Château Mouton-Rothschild & Rothschild Family Estates wine dinner featuring the 2017 vintage. We said Yes, of course.
Wine producers in Bordeaux call the 2017 ‘the forgotten vintage’ but it doesn’t deserve the name. Despite destructive frosts in April and some rain in September, many winemakers managed to produce outstanding wines from their vineyards, showcasing great technique and precision in their viticulture and enology.
A Bordeaux First Growth, Château Mouton-Rothschild comprises 84 hectares (207 acres) of vines at Pauillac in the Médoc, planted as 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. It now belongs to the three children of the late Baroness Philippine de Rothschild who are dedicated to their mother’s and grandfather’s work.
The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 was based entirely on recent market prices for a vineyard’s wines, with one exception: Château Mouton-Rothschild. Despite the market prices for their vineyard’s wines equaling that of Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Mouton-Rothschild was excluded from First Great Growth status, an act that Baron Philippe de Rothschild referred to as “the monstrous injustice”. It is believed that the exception was made because the vineyard had recently been purchased by an Englishman and was no longer in French ownership.
In 1973, Mouton was elevated to “first growth” status after decades of intense lobbying by its powerful and influential owner, the only change in the original 1855 classification (excepting the 1856 addition of Château Cantemerle). This prompted a change of motto: previously, the motto of the wine was Premier ne puis, second ne daigne, Mouton suis. (“First, I cannot be. Second, I do not deign to be. Mouton I am.”), and it was changed to Premier je suis, Second je fus, Mouton ne change. “First, I am. Second, I used to be. Mouton does not change.”
The Paintings for the Labels
After a first initiative, ahead of its time, with the poster artist Jean Carlu in 1924, Baron Philippe waited until 1945 to finally establish a tradition that would henceforth become the visual hallmark of Mouton Rothschild.
From one label to another, Mouton Rothschild has thus brought together some of the most celebrated artists of their day, including Miró, Chagall, Braque, Picasso, Tàpies, Francis Bacon, Dali, Balthus, Jeff Koons and even Prince Charles, the Prince of Wales.
The artists have complete freedom of creation, though certain themes, such as the vine, the pleasure of drinking and the ram, the Mouton Rothschild emblem, have proved a particularly rich source of inspiration.
The 2017 Artist Label
Born in Northern France, the visual and graphic artist Annette Messager has held exhibitions in leading museums from Paris to London, Tokyo and New York… the recipient of prestigious awards from Venice to Japan. Unafraid of different forms or sensitive issues, her work includes drawings, 3-D assemblies and monumental tableaux.
For her Mouton-Rothschild creation, she starts from the most literal form of drawing: writing. The word “Hallelujah” is repeated in successive waves, joining them to a celebration of two essential substances of a rich life: milk and wine…which the Bible often associates with each-other, hymming the virtues of both.
The Menu
Passed Canapes
Cremant de Limoux ”Cuvèe Eugienie”, Antech, Limoux, France, NV
Maine Diver Sea Scallop En Croûte, Black Truffle Butter
A Maine diver sea scallop served in its natural shell, filled with sliced truffles and truffle butter, wrapped in puff pastry.
Aile D’Argent Bordeaux Blanc, Château Mouton-Rothschild, Bordeaux, France, 2017
Seasonal Wild Mushroom, Truffles & Foie Gras, en Croûte
Wild mushroom and truffle consommé, with Foie Gras, duck confit and Black “Burgundy” Truffles topped with puff pastry.
Château d’Armailhac, Pauilac·Bordeaux, France, 2017
Char-Grilled Farmed Raised Coturnix Quail, Black “Burgundy” Truffle Butter
Char-grilled quail filled with a quail and truffle forcemeat, serve with a chestnut mousseline, finished with Black “Burgundy” truffle butter sauce.
Château Clerc Millon, Pauilac·Bordeaux, France, 2017
Le Petit Mouton de Pauilac·Bordeaux, France, 2017
Roast Tenderloin of Veal, Sauce Périgueux
Tenderloin of Wisconsin Veal, served over a Delicata squash filled with white and black truffle risotto and finished with chanterelle mushrooms and a truffle reduction sauce.
Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauilac·Bordeaux, France, 2017
Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauilac·Bordeaux, France, 2003
White Truffle Ice Cream, Truffle Honey & Seasonal Berries
French vanilla bean ice cream with Alba White Truffles, Truffle honey, almond tuile and seasonal berries.
Château Coutet Sauternes, Barsac·Sauternes, France, 2017
$285/Per Guest Tax & Gratuity not included
The Wines
Cremant de Limoux ”Cuvèe Eugienie”, Antech, Limoux, France, 2017
This cuvée is to pay homage to Eugénie Limouzy, great aunt of Francoise Antech and pioneering woman winemaker in Limoux. Golden with bright reflections and fine bubble and effervescence. The nose is fine and delicate combining white flowers, toasty notes and honey. The taste is balanced and persistent, displaying both freshness and refinement. A blend of 70% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Mauzac.
Jancis Robinson 92 Points
Aile D’Argent Bordeaux Blanc, Château Mouton-Rothschild, Bordeaux, France, 2017
A blend of 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 46% Semillon and 1% Muscadelle, the 2017 Aile d’Argent has lovely white peaches, lemon curd and beeswax notes with hints of orange peel, grapefruit and a touch of sage. The alate is light to medium-bodied and bursting with exuberant stone fruit and citrus flavors, with a racy line and a long, peachy finish.
93 Points Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Château d’Armailhac, Pauillac·Bordeaux, France, 2017
Lots of chocolate and berry aromas with currants. Full-bodied, round and juicy with hints of blueberries and white pepper. Long and flavorful. Firm. A blend of 68% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot, 7% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot. Needs another two or three years to soften.
94 Points James Sucklin
Château Clerc Millon, Pauillac·Bordeaux, France, 2017
This is a rich and profound red with blackberries, blackcurrants, pine needles and graphite. Black licorice, too. Full-bodied, crisp and creamy with fantastic tannin backbone and length. Deep. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot, 14% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot and 1% carmenere.
95 Points James Suckling
Le Petit Mouton, Pauillac·Bordeaux, France, 2017
Lots of sweet tobacco and wet earth with currants, too. Full body and round, polished tannins that are creamy and beautiful. A little reserved and shy now. A blend of 81% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. Second wine of Château Mouton Rothschild.
93 Points James Suckling
Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac·Bordeaux, France, 2017
Extremely perfumed Mouton with currants and crushed berries. Hints of roses and other flowers. Tight and extremely refined with ultra-fine tannins and cool yet rich currant character. The center palate offers sweet cherries and hints of oak. Lightly sweet and sour. Fresh, balsamic note. It firms up at the end. Solid. A blend of 90% cabernet sauvignon, 9% merlot and 1% petit verdot.
98 Points James Suckling
Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac·Bordeaux, France, 2003
A heady, exotic wine, the 2003 Mouton Rothschild takes hold of all the senses. The ripeness and exuberance of the year comes through in spades as this dramatic, opulent wine shows off its radiant personality. The 2003 can be enjoyed now, but it could also use another few years for the tannins to soften. Still, the 2003 is pretty hard to resist today. This is an exceptional, deeply satisfying Mouton endowed with notable richness but also exceptional balance. Hints of toffee, torrefaction and dark spices are laced into the finish. In 2003 the blend is 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.
95 points Vinous
Château Coutet Sauternes, Barsac·Sauternes, France, 2017
Wow. Fabulous focus and intensity to this wine with energetic sweetness and long, linear quality through the center palate. Orange-peel, lemon and peach undertones. Fresh finish.