A Spanish Wine Dinner with Luis Cañas & Finca Sobreno
Thursday, September 12th, 2024 • 6:30pm
The Menu
Classic Andalusian Gazpacho
Lobster Risotto & Scampi, Petit Basque
A Scampi poached in white wine served over a rich lobster and saffron fine herb risotto flavored with herb butter and Petit Basque cheese.
Rioja Blanco “Vinas Vieja”, Luis Cañas, Rioja, Spain, 2018
House Cured Ohio Proud Pork Belly, Andalusian Style
Seared pork belly simmered in its natural juices served Andalusian style with spinach, chorizo and chickpeas finished with a Tempranillo reduction.
Toro “Crianza”, Finca Sobreno, Toro, Spain, 2019
Toro Ildefonso “Vinas Vieja”, Finca Sobreno, Toro, Spain, 2017
Cordero, Sauce au Naturel
An oven roasted lamb chop with an herb crust served with roasted tomatoes, olives and roasted Piquillo peppers served with a lamb glace de viande.
Rioja “Reserva” Luis Cañas, Rioja, Spain, 2017
Rioja “Gran Reserva” Luis Cañas, Rioja, Spain, 2016
Rioja “Reserva La Familia” Luis Cañas, Rioja, Spain, 2019
Flan au Caramel
An egg custard finished with caramel sauce and fresh seasonal berries.
Pedro Ximénez “Solera 1927”, Bodegas Alvear, Jerez, Spain,
$145/Per Guest
Tax & Gratuity not included.
All pricing reflects a cash payment. A 2.75% convenience fee is added for all credit card transactions.
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Bodegas Luis Cañas, Rioja, Spain
In 1970 Luis Cañas changed two hundred years of tradition and became the first winemaker in Rioja Alavesa to bottle his young wine rather than sell it as bulk.
This bold move, and his continued pioneering spirit, has cemented the winery’s enviable reputation as one of the most progressive in the region. Sheltered below the watchful Sierra Cantabria, the vineyards are all old, small plots on chalky-clay soils with a dedicated team of vineyard workers carrying out organic practices and a purpose built, fully equipped accommodation block was built for the entire vineyard team in 2006.
Viticulture
Juan Luis Cañas is now the powerhouse behind this highly accomplished winery, but everywhere you go there is a feeling of family, and especially of the lasting legacy that Luis Cañas has left for both his son and the Rioja Alavesa since his passing in December 2019. With 350 hectares of outstanding vineyards, split across 870 different plots, the viticultural department control every aspect. Each of the plots has its own personality and is categorized and used for different wines according to its characteristics.
Winemaking
All Bodegas Luis Cañas wines undergo a double selection process. The grape clusters are first sorted by hand and then checked a second time to ensure only the best are selected. Wines are aged in new French and American oak barrels from among the best cooperages in the world. The casks are renewed continuously with an average age of just three years.
Rioja is an indigenous Spanish wine varietal that likely dates back to Roman times. In fact, some speculate that the Rioja grape varieties may have been a precursor to the Bordeaux varieties that sprung up slightly later in France. Commercial wine production in Rioja began in the 13th century, and wine has been the region’s primary focus from the 15th century until now. It can be made as a red or white wine depending on the grape, though red wines using Tempranillo grapes are the most common.
In the 1780s, Don Manuel Quintano traveled to Bordeaux and brought back the oak aging technique to Rioja, which drastically improved the longevity and export potential of the wine.
Still, Rioja maintained a low-profile reputation and was seen as inferior to French wines until the mid-to-late 19th century. A series of fungal outbreaks devastated French vineyards, forcing many French producers to set up shop in Rioja. In the 20th century, the region suffered along with most of Europe due to World War II, but by the 1960s, production was back to normal. Finally, the 1970 vintage was regarded as one of the best wines in the world, leading to the acknowledgment of Rioja as one of the best Spanish wines. Most recently, producers have been experimenting with fruitier flavors to capture even more international attention.
Finca Sobreno, Toro, Spain
A family project established in 1998 by Roberto San Ildefonso, who, with hard work, care and dedication, has managed to bring together a team of professionals, joined in recent years by his daughter Paloma, who have combined knowledge and enthusiasm to harness the essence of the vineyard and the Toro terroir.
We take care of the winemaking process from the outset, from the vineyards, by cherishing and respecting our environment to ensure that our vines produce their best fruit and that we obtain honest, subtle, elegant wines. We own 80 hectares of vineyards, more than half of which are certified as organic, and we cultivate our vineyards in a sustainable manner, taking care of the soil and keeping it alive. We apply traditional know-how combined with our innovative spirit.
Toro is one of the most up-and-coming appellations. These wines are causing a sensation throughout the world. Toro covers a total of 5.500 Ha. Tinta de Toro and Garnacha are the authorized varieties for reds and Malvasia and Verdejo are authorized for whites as main varities. Toro Doi is one of the few appellations not alluding the use of foreign varieties.
Nevertheless, Bodegas Sobreño has taken the decision to process its wines using only the Tinta de Toro variety. The municipalities that make up the Appellation d’Origine are located in the provinces of Valladolid and Zamora. This Appellation characterized for its extreme continental climate, with Atlantic influences of an arid nature. The vineyards lie at a height of between 600 and 750 meters above sea level.
The Wines…
Vermouth Tinto “Selección Especial Reserva, Mata, Castilla y León, Spain, NV
Vermouth Blanco “Selección Especial”, Mata, Castilla y León, Spain, NV
Vermouth Mata Tinto
Dating back to a family recipe from 1880, Mata Vermouths reflect the family heritage of generations of winemaking. Patrick Mata’s ancestors have been producing this artisanal Spanish vermouth for well over a century, and developed the perfect recipe over time through trial and tribulation of over 40 blends. This one came out on top. Having sold the original winery in the 1970s in Malaga, Mata Vermouth is now made in the northern Spanish province of Bierzo. The vermouth is considered ‘French Style’ meaning, it is slightly drier and aged for more than 18 months with its spices. This process allows for better integration of flavor through gentle co-mingling of wines and herbs. In addition, the alcohol is more seamless and integrates into the flavors more elegantly. The Mata Vermouth resurrection has always been a personal dream of Patrick Mata, co-founder of Olé & Obrigado. His family sold these vermouths in the US prior to prohibition, and now, almost 100 years later, he is thrilled to re-introduce these historic beverages back into the country. Bringing these artisanal vermouths into the market is a way of honoring his loved ones from generations past, while offering the discerning aperitif drinker something special and unique. The vermouths of Europe are seeing a renaissance in the US. The Mata family offerings represent a provenance in family tradition which brings flavors of old into the present. While the exact blend is a secret, some of the dominant botanicals are dry chamomile, clove, vanilla and turmeric. With a spicy and slightly heady flavor profile, Mata Vermouth evokes flavors of woodsy forest floor, ripe macerated berries and African spice. Delicious on its own, over ice, or blended in your favorite cocktail, Mata Vermouth provides unique flavor, longstanding history and pedigree winemaking in every sip.
Vermouth Mata Blanco
Dating back to a family recipe from the early 1900s, Mata Vermouth blanco reflects the family heritage of generations of winemaking. Patrick Mata’s ancestors have been producing this artisanal Spanish vermouth for well over a century, and developed the perfect recipe over time. Having sold the original winery in the 1970s in Malaga, Mata Vermouth is now made in the northern Spanish province of Bierzo. This vermouth falls under the category of what people now call “sipping vermouths”. It is sweet, yet bitter, and perfect served over ice on its own with a wedge of orange. The Mata Vermouth resurrection has always been a personal dream of Patrick Mata, co-founder of Olé & Obrigado. His family sold these vermouths in the US prior to prohibition. Now, almost 100 years later, he is thrilled to reintroduce these historic beverages back into the country. Bringing these artisanal vermouths into the market is a way of honoring his loved ones from generations past, while offering the discerning aperitif drinker something special and unique. The vermouths of Europe are seeing a renaissance in the US. The Mata family offerings represent a provenance in family tradition, which brings flavors of old into the present. While the exact blend is a secret, some of the dominant botanicals are star anise, saffron, mint and thyme. Mata Vermouth provides unique flavor, longstanding history and pedigree winemaking in every sip.
Albarino “Leirana”, Bodegas Forjas del Salnes, Rías Baixas·Galicia, Spain, 2021
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Bright and sharply focused on the nose, displaying incisive Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, quinine and mineral scents, along with a hint of ginger in the background. Dry, taut and light on its feet, offering intense, mineral-laced citrus and orchard fruit flavors that show no excess weight. Closes on a spicy note, displaying strong, floral-tinged persistenceThis humble garage winery collaboration, Forjas del Salnes, came to life in 2005 when vineyard owner and winemaker Rodrigo Mendez began to revitalize a little piece of Galician history that was quickly fading.
Rodrigo Méndez of Forjas del Salnés (known locally as Rodri) is the 5th generation in a family that has grown and crafted quality wine for centuries. Today he is considered one of the greatest Albariño producers in the world, offering more than 15 small-batch bottlings from the micro-terroirs around the Val do Salnés, the most coastal subzone in DO Rías Baixas—an appellation that was established by his grandfather. In another homage to his family’s legacy, Rodri is also leading the revitalization of several nearly extinct local red varietals. Thanks to his rigorous approach and deep regional knowledge, Rodri’s wines are pure expressions of the diverse Salnés terroirs. As a winemaker, he embraces historic techniques that highlight the personality of the different vineyard sites and his basic philosophies and commitment to organic and low-intervention production (native yeast fermentation, extended lees contact without batonnage, minimal sulfur) are consistent across all his wines. As a grower, Rodri has deep respect for his region’s ancient vineyard sites trained in the traditional Parral (pergola) system; he takes a hands-on approach by insisting on longer hang times and manual harvest, all while practicing organic agriculture.
Raig de Raïm Blanco, Celler Vins Piñol, Terra Alta· Catalunya, Spain, 2020 (Juan Pinol)
Youthful white wine with pale lemon hue. Enticingly aromatic with hints of yellow apple, Bosc pear and tropical pineapple combine with floral notes of acacia and herbal notes of wild thyme and rosemary. Round in mouth with well-balanced acidity and lingering finish.
Raig de Raïm (Ray of Grape in Catalan) is a 100% native varietal estate-bottled Garnacha Blanca made by Celler Piñol from the region of Terra Alta, located south of Barcelona. Terra Alta’s high elevation vineyards coupled with Piñol’s organic viticulture produces a wine that communicates the freshness of this rewarding region, relatively unknown until now. The story of Cellar Piñol mirrors the ascendance of Spanish wines in world markets over the past ten years, a story of how a reverence for old, treasured vineyards and the best family traditions have been combined with new winemaking methods to make the finest wines possible. Similar to Yecla and Vinos de Madrid, Terra Alta is one of Spain’s up-and-coming wine regions with an identity built on exciting projects and progressive innovation. Juanjo Piñol and Cristina Borrull are the winemakers. Juanjo’s mother Josefina remains in charge of the family cellar.
Rioja “Reserva”, La Antigua Clásico, Sierra de La Demanda · Rioja, Spain, 2012 (Alberto Orte)
Lively smoke- and spice-accented cherry and red berry aromas are complemented by floral oil, game and pipe tobacco flourishes. Seamless and focused on the palate, offering juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter with air. Shows very good energy and suave floral character on a long, fruit-driven finish that’s given shape by well-integrated tannins.
A classic style Rioja produced from high elevation vineyards located in the Sierra de la Demanda area of the Rioja appellation. Old vines of Garnacha planted since 1940. Vines are tended in mineral soils of red silica, which are very unique and rare in Rioja.
Rioja “Gran Reserva”, La Antigua Clásico, Sierra de La Demanda · Rioja, Spain, 2018 (Alberto Orte)
Bright ruby-garnet. On the nose, powerful, dark and brooding, with swirling aromas of fresh and dried red cherry, fresh blackberry, black pepper, umami, soy, dried purple flowers, spicebox and leather. On the palate, surprisingly, even shockingly fresh acidity, with red and blue fruit framed beautifully by cedar, white pepper, and a touch of coffee. Beautifully balanced and plush textured, with impressive persistence and concentration. An elegant, classic Rioja.
La Antigua
This is a unique wine coming from one of the most special and unknown territories of the Rioja region. Geographically speaking, Rioja is a valley that goes from East to West. Located to the north the mountains of Sierra Cantabria and to the South the unknown mountains of Sierra de La Demanda, where La Antigua vineyards are located. The northern facing vineyards of Sierra de la Demanda experience cooler temperatures resulting in grapes that are able to ripen more slowly hence showcasing flavors of greater balance and focus. In addition to the cooler conditions of this area, La Antigua is a place where the parcels are extremely small and steep. This terrain is almost impossible to mechanize, all the important vineyard work needs to be done by hand. The majority of the people who own these vineyards are local farmers who do not make wine, they only grow grapes, which in exchange they sell at top prices to the big bodegas mostly located in the north of the valley near the train tracks. In the case of La Antigua, both the vineyard work and winemaking is handled by the same people. This farm-winemaking unity is always a key factor to fashioning superior wines. Lastly and most importantly in Sierra de La Demanda we find among the oldest garnacha vines of Rioja.
Garnacha, Vizcarra, Casitlla y León · Ribera del Duero, Spain , 2019 (Juan Carlos Vizcarra)
Lurid ruby-red. Sexy, expansive aromas of ripe red fruits, coconut and candied flowers pick up a smoky topnote with air. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering intense raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors that are firmed by a spine of juicy acidity. Shows excellent clarity and spicy thrust on the clinging finish, which is framed by supple, even tannins. Aged in a 50/50 combination of new and used French and American oak. — Josh Raynolds
Juan Carlos Vizcarra is a man of intensity, passion, and incredible ambition. Though his family has grown grapes in northern DO Ribera del Duero for more than four generations, he was the first to make estate-bottled wine from this fruit starting in 1991. The story goes that when he was a boy, he noticed that the historic estates of Vega Sicilia and Pesquera would come to his family in bad vintages to buy fruit. Realizing that his family must have truly special vineyards of the highest quality, Juan Carlos took it upon himself to begin producing wines to express this blessed terroir and heritage. Like all the wines at the tiny Bodegas Vizcarra, the Vizcarra Garnacha is made using gravity-fed winemaking to preserve the freshness and elegance intrinsic to the limestone plots found in northern Burgos. In addition to preserving the history of Ribera del Duero, Juan Carlos is an intellectually curious winemaker and viticulturist, and is very interested in the potential for varieties other than Tempranillo in this extreme climate. This Garnacha is from a parcel that he planted in 2000, intended as a blending component for the wine he names for his daughter Celia. He produces it now as a monovarietal wine, the first of its kind in Ribera del Duero. Juan Carlos’ meticulous attention to detail comes across in the pure, fresh character of this Garnacha.
Raig de Raïm Tinto, Celler Vins Piñol, Terra Alta· Catalunya, Spain, 2020
Garnet ruby core with vibrant violet rim. On the nose aromas of brambly black raspberries and black currant intermingle with roasted meat, licorice, and dried oregano. On the palate tart and tangy ripe black cherry harmonizes with smoky oak, sweet tobacco, and dried sage. The floral aromatics of purple pansies compliment the depth of ripe black fruit in the mouth and hint of piquant balsamic in the finish.
Raig de Raïm (Ray of Grape in Catalan) is a blend of Garnacha, Cariñena, and Syrah made by Celler Piñol in the region of Terra Alta, located southwest of Barcelona. Terra Alta’s highland vineyards coupled with Piñol’s organic viticulture produce wines that communicate the freshness of this rewarding region, relatively unknown until now. The story of Celler Piñol mirrors the ascendance of Spanish wines in world markets over the past ten years, a story of how a reverence for old, treasured vineyards and the best family traditions have been combined with new winemaking methods to make the finest wines possible. Similar to Yecla and Vinos de Madrid, Terra Alta is one of Spain’s up-and-coming wine regions with an identity built on exciting projects and progressive innovation. Juanjo Piñol and Cristina Barroll are the winemakers. Juanjo’s mother Josefina remains in charge of the family cellar.
Goliardo “Tinto de Mar”, Bodegas Forjas del Salnes, Val do Salnes·Rías Baixas, Spain, 2021
This is an Atlantic red with the spicy, black pepper nose, typical of Caiño, and a wild character of herbs and flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a silky, fine texture and great freshness, long and really tasty finish with a salty note.
Red wine in Rías Baixas was the way of the land back in the early 1900s. In the 1970s, when surrounding farmers were uprooting their less productive, less desirable red grapes in favor of planting increasingly popular Albariño grapes, the Mendez family was planting them. It all began in the early 2000s when Rodri’s mission became clear: to execute his grandfather’s lifelong dream of grafting and replanting the nearly extinct, ancient coastal red vineyards in Val do Salnes and revive the nearly forgotten wines of his family’s history.
Rodri is intent on pursuing this shift in the Galician trend. With his winemaking and vineyard knowledge and skill rooted in the past, Rodri remains conscious of the present while having a vision for the future, and is producing some of Spain’s finest Albariños and rare Galician reds.
Rodrigo Méndez of Forjas del Salnés (known locally as Rodri) is the 5th generation in a family that has grown and crafted quality wine for centuries. Today he is considered one of the greatest Albariño producers in the world, offering more than 15 small-batch bottlings from the micro-terroirs around the Val do Salnés, the most coastal subzone in DO Rías Baixas—an appellation that was established by his grandfather. In another homage to his family’s legacy, Rodri is also leading the revitalization of several nearly extinct local red varietals. Thanks to his rigorous approach and deep regional knowledge, Rodri’s wines are pure expressions of the diverse Salnés terroirs. As a winemaker, he embraces historic techniques that highlight the personality of the different vineyard sites and his basic philosophies and commitment to organic and low-intervention production (native yeast fermentation, extended lees contact without batonnage, minimal sulfur) are consistent across all his wines. As a grower, Rodri has deep respect for his region’s ancient vineyard sites trained in the traditional Parral (pergola) system; he takes a hands-on approach by insisting on longer hang times and manual harvest, all while practicing organic agriculture.
Priorat, Bodega La Cartuja, Priorat, Spain, 2020
The wine is made in an approachable style to be enjoyed young while preserving the ferrous minerality and explosive blue fruit that built the name of Priorat. Made with estate-owned fruit, it is aged in French oak barrels for 6 months. 70% Garnacha, 30% Mazuelo (Carinena). Brilliant ruby. Ripe dark berries, licorice, smoky minerals and a hint of succulent flowers on the perfumed nose. Juicy, round and open-knit; a peppery note adds lift and cut to warm blackberry, bitter cherry and licorice pastille flavors. The long, mineral-accented finish shows very good focus and closes on a youthfully tannic note, leaving cherry pit and floral notes behind.
La Cartuja is a modern interpretation of DOCa Priorat’s terroir that nods to the great history of the region. During medieval times, “La Cartuja” was the name given to a large area of today’s Catalonia region governed by the Carthusian monks, who were responsible for much of the agrarian development of the region, including viticulture. Today, Priorat is one of the most prestigious appellations in Spain, revered for its powerfully mineral reds grown in poor soils of decomposed volcanic slate. Among other accolades, Priorat has the status of Denomination de Origen Calificada, the highest tier of quality in the Spanish appellation system. La Cartuja is a distinct wine with Mediterranean flair but stands out among its peers for its approachable character, moderate alcohol and soft tannins that allow for drinking much younger than is common for Priorat. A wine of pedigree, La Cartuja remains a small production cuvee made from estate-owned grapes located in the Les Solanes estate, which has been farmed since the heyday of the Carthusian monks in the middle ages. This project was born in 2007 as a special bottling to capture and display the unique mineral character of the region in a direct, unpretentious way, finally making Priorat available to all.
Yecla Tinto “Gordo”, Compañia de Vinos del Atlantico, Yecla, Spain, 2020
Gordo showcases the brilliant quality of the Mourvèdre grape from this sunny appellation. The wine boasts an opaque ruby/purple color along with notes of lead pencil shavings, blackberries, black raspberries and a hint of blueberries. The sensational fruit characteristics are pure, as well as vivid. This full-bodied, opulent, stunningly savory, expansively flavored wine can be drunk over the next 2-3 years. – Notes by Robert Parker
Gordo is Patrick Mata’s affectionate way of calling his father, Jose Mata. For almost four generations, Patrick’s family produced wine in Malaga, Montilla, Sanlucar, Rioja and other Spanish regions. These wines were sold in many countries, including the US, before and after prohibition. During the 60s, the demand of Malaga wines suffered greatly, which ultimately resulted in the Mata winery closing its doors in 1972. The wine Gordo pays tribute to the Mata winemaking heritage and, specifically, to Patrick’s father. The Gordo label is a replica of one of the family labels from the late 1800s. Today, after a few decades, Patrick and Alberto through Vinos Atlantico are resurrecting their family heritage and producing wines in many regions throughout the Iberian Peninsula, including this rich yet elegant blend of Monastrell and Cabernet from the southeast of Spain.